>>Yet extra virgin olive oil sits on the shelf of your local store...
The challenge is that there's a lot of 'counterfeit' oil on that shelf. Best case is that oil marked 'extra virgin' isn't EV but is a lesser grade* of olive oil, worst case is that it's something inexpensive, high in polyunsaturates along with chlorophyll to give it that olive oil look. It's simple enough to tell the difference if you know what virgin olive oil tastes like (although there are big differences depending first on olive ripeness, and then on varietal). An 'early pick' (green olives) EVOO should produce a 'burn' at the back of your throat. If it's a brand you've never had before and you don't want to open it (so you can return it), stick it in your fridge overnight. Olive oil (at least the grades above 'pomace') will solidify.
*lesser grades, e.g. not first press are *much* lower in oleocanthal. I've seen studies linking better outcomes with extra virgin but not the other grades of olive oil and I suspect the reason is this highly anti-inflammatory component. As a side note, early-pick tends to be higher in oleocanthal. Personally I go for early-pick (more common in Greek or Tunisian oils) EVOO for anything that does not involve heat - although I may be wrong there as there's some evidence that 'high-polyphenol' (which I read to be oleocanthal) EVOO stands up to cooking better than it 'should' (based on smoke point). Best value is typically in 3L tins - and many of the IMO 'better' oils are only available in tins, and possibly 250ml 'samplers'.