Very good advice.

I still tend more towards wide shots for foliage - and those can be challenging from a scene dynamic range point of view, particularly for an 'open' landscape (meaning the sky is included). I'm a landscape guy, so dynamic range is a major factor when I buy a camera body. But even if you can't upgrade, there are ways to eke out as much dynamic range out of your camera as you can.

First off, shoot in raw mode. Once you're doing that, expose as far to the 'right' as you can. Look at your histogram; the shape doesn't matter but you want the right side of the 'gram snugged up as close as possible to the right edge as possible, without crawling up the edge. Extra credit for using a RGB histogram to look at individual colors. (outdoors, with sky, blue tends to blow out first).

Also understand that, when in raw mode, histograms are kind of a lie - in the sense that the histogram is made from the JPEG embedded in your raw file - and so is the result of whatever settings/profile you have set to make OOC JPEGs - so set those as neutral/flat as you can. Yes, this will make the shot look flat and uninteresting on the review panel.

Then, in post processing, you can pull the highlights down some and possibly the shadows up before doing anything else.

BTW/FWIW, with Nikon DSLRs, at least, when reviewing a shot, the RGB histogram reflects what part of the photo is being shown, so if you're concerned about blowing out an intense color (flowers, say) you can zoom in, pan to those flowers and get a read on just that area. Anybody out there know if it's the same with Fuji? I'm considering one of their MFTs as a hiking rig.